Calvin Luo dived into the works of Helmut Newton to conceptualize his Fall/Winter 2022 Womenswear and Menswear Collection.  

I think a fashion photograph is almost a social document that will take you back. The older it gets, the more interesting it is. It shows you how people lived. In my pictures, anyway.

Helmut Newton

“Le Smoking,” one of the photographer’s most emblematic image, was taken in a dusty Parisian alleyway (rue Aubriot). The pure and elegant simplicity remains the epitome of chic to this day. It is documented that Newton asked Vikebe Knudsen (the model) to incarnate a familiar figure in 19th century French art: the Dandy. According to Beaudelaire, the Dandy “has no profession other than elegance.” “Le Smoking” would not only mark a shift in fashion, but also in power. In the words of Pierre Bergé , “It is a well-known fact that Chanel gave women their freedom; years later Saint Laurent brought them power.” 

Calvin asked himself what the same elegance and power would look like today. With his collection film titled “LE NOIR”, Calvin plumbs into “Le Smoking” almost half a century later and pays homage to Paris (again) whose iconic beauty has remained unchanged by the passing of time. 

With a mainly black, white, and grey collection, CALVINLUO keeps faith with the emblematic image, but introduces timely details that anchor his vision in modernity. Crisp and deconstructed tailoring, asymmetric construction patterns, and his signature significant metalware bring this vision to life. And while “Le Smoking” (the tux) is not a groundbreaker nowadays, Calvin’s supplemental choices convey Newton’s rule breaking attitude: Gender fluid sport tanks, denim, masculine belts. His styling choices render his vision into the present. Butterfly punk jewelry (a nod to the CALVINLUO SS22 collection), black lipstick, e-cigarettes, and a purposeful choice to pair the entire collection with a new signature high and lop top square toe sneaker elevate the collection’s versatility.

Calvin’s love for Paris is no secret – tributes and homages are recurrent in his work – but this collection hits different. This is now the 5th season CALVINLUO shows digitally. His film “LE NOIR” transports the collection to a fabled Paris; wishful thinking that next season he will be back in person. 

Edited by Brianne Oliva