Do you struggle to find jeans that fit you? Or finding the style you like? Trying on jeans after jeans to find the ‘perfect fit’ can be exhausting. But I think everyone has been there.
I posted about Levi’s secondhand website a couple of months ago. And I mentioned how you could get service at any Levi’s store where they have The Levi’s Tailor Shop. A couple of weeks ago, I had a chance to visit one with a pair of my vintage Levi’s. It was my first time, and the experience was nice. I met Levi’s knowledgeable, professional tailor. I left the store one happy customer, ready to wear my newly tailored jeans.
I thought, ‘what’s a better way than to get some style tips directly from the professional?’ I went back and asked some questions about the shop, the service, and the artist behind the magic of tailoring! So today, I would like to introduce you to a fantastic Levi’s tailor, Sam Gunderman.
- How did you learn to sew??
I can’t remember exactly when because I had always sewn since I was young. When I was 8, I was already sewing with my mother’s sewing machine, making a little patchwork with upholstery that my grandmother gifted me. When I was in 7th grade, and when everyone was making basic shorts in the home education class, I was making six pockets cargo shorts with belt-loops and zip-fly!
- What is your background (You before Levi’s Tailor Shop)?
I have been in the tailoring business since I was 19. I worked as an in-house tailor for different companies in Illinois and in Austin, TX, in my late 20s. I play in a band, so I have always made the band clothes or customized them for the members and other artists. I have a degree in fashion design, too.
- What brought you to the Levi’s Tailor Shop, and how long have you been doing this?
After moving back to Chicago, I continued to work with musicians and different artists, and my love for denim has always been there. So, when I saw a new Levis store opening, and they were looking for a tailor, I went for it! I got hired, and we opened this location in August 2021.
- What kind of service do you offer?
I call it ‘FIT, FIX, FUN.’ I can ‘FIT’ jeans to almost all body shapes with a hem or waist adjustment. I can also ‘FIX’ nearly any damage; zippers, belt loops, rips, tears, holes, and abrasions. Finally, if I can’t fix your pants in a way that blends in naturally, I can HIGHLIGHT the damage in a ‘FUN’ way.
I do small customization with the Levi’s supplied, colored buttons, colored back patches, or replacement of the iconic “red tab” with any color of your choosing, too. Adding different fabrics and pockets, embroidering names, painting images, cropping jackets, and transforming men’s jeans to women’s are also some of the other things that I can do!
- Are there any particular styles of jeans, jackets, or other items that one should look for when considering the alteration later?
The style never matters, so you choose whatever makes you feel like a rockstar! When you are shopping for ones, take some notes of the fiber content, like how much elasticity they have. Ensure it fits in the seat and thighs correctly because I can always take the waistband in. Don’t be afraid to size up, it’s just a number, and I can ALWAYS remove the fabric, but I CANNOT pull the fabric out of thin air.
- Any interesting job that you are working on or have worked on that was memorable?
Unfortunately, I cannot pick just one. I become very emotionally invested in every project I work on to the point that I hurt my feelings when I know I could do it better.
- What are your favorite styles from Levi’s?
Personally, I’m a 511 guy, and I DO love the 501’s. For my 501s, I have basically converted them similar to 511 by lower the waistband, recutting the pockets and yoke, and JUST retaining the button fly and leg opening.
- Vintage or premium denim??
They both have benefits. Levi’s premium denim is something you can buy today, wear tomorrow and be comfortable and content. Styles and colors always reflect what’s trending today, and the premium quality ensures you can wear them for years to come. Vintage,on the other hand, has a life of its own. The rarity of each piece ensures that no two will be alike, and the fact that some of them are 30+ years old speaks volumes to the quality that seems to be lost in the fast fashion society we have all grown accustomed to.
- What personal projects or social media accounts would you like the world to know?
I am the costume manager for the Elgin, IL city production, “Nightmare on Chicago Street,” every October. It is a block party one night a year where I design, find, and make 200+ costumes for the talents.
Find me and some of my Levi’s work and personal work on Instagram @perfikt13 or swing by the shop at Levi’s Store at Oakbrook Center, Oakbrook, IL!
Images provided by Sam Gunderman