“Self-perception”

“In art and dream may you proceed with abandon. In life may you proceed with balance and stealth.” ——
Patti Smith

Robert Mapplethorpe’s photo of Patti Smith on the sleeve of Horses is considered one of the greatest album
covers ever. A simple portrait, to the waist, of a woman in a crisp white shirt, a black ribbon draped over
her shoulders and dark jeans. Her jaw is jutting out proudly, defiantly. A jacket is slung over her shoulder.
Smith’s longtime friend perfectly captured the essence of the punk rock poet. To Calvin, it epitomizes the power of women of the 1970s but is also a sorely needed force for today.

Quiet bloom – “unexpected blossoms are more captivating.”

Calvin delicately blends femininity and strength through fabric combinations, craftmanship, and silhouette.
In each seemingly casual pleat and stitch lies a metaphor for femininity: Draping fluid pleats dimensionally cut
in soft chiffon, knitted fabrics mesmerizingly complemented by structured metal springs on shoulders.
Combining bud-shaped taffeta pleats and knitted fabric, the CALVINLUO signature black suit is transformed
into a transitory dream/reality like beauty flitting across a bed of 3D printed roses, bead embroidery, sequins
and crocheting blooms.

Flash of inspiration – “the stunning beauty of order.”

Calvin finds repetition enticing. By adding and repeating novelty elements to classics and basics – pleats and
cuts, beading and knitting, multi-tier wrap-around belts and straps – he explicitly allures, neatens, and
refreshes his necklines, sleeves, legs, and his now iconic square-toe footwear.

Wild rhythm – “beauty as a result of inadvertent actions.”

Fashion design has much in common with music creation, where sometimes seemingly rebellious challenges
to, or breakthroughs in, conventional logical arrangements can make new styles or embolden classics. Calvin
rhythms his collection with stripes and belts, and while the latter retains its primary functionality, it becomes a

As Patti Smith’s quote implies, artists find balance by being steady and well-organized in life to be
fierce and original in their work. Wildness and calm, though seemingly opposite, facilitate self-dialogue; quiet
bloom gives rise to flashing inspiration, bringing an authentic wildness to oneself. Enhanced and matured,
Calvin Luo returns to Paris after a three-year hiatus with his CALVINLUO Autumn/Winter 2023 Collection.
Calvin echoes the words of Patti Smith and approaches his creations with wildness and his business with calm;
freewheeling creatively and defiantly enhancing his verity.